How to Buy an Old Mine Cut Diamond Ring: Where to Shop, What to Look For, and Lab-Grown Options

 

By hand and under candlelight, the old mine cut diamond was created in the early 1700s. Each stone was shaped by craftsmen using primitive tools, anything from a scaife to a chisel was used to cut and polish the perfect diamond. Modern technology eventually replaced this ancient technique, but the love of what made old mine cut diamond rings so unique has remained. The rounded corners, high crown, small table, and a viral Taylor Swift proposal have brought a historic ring cut back to the forefront of popular engagement rings. 

Whether you’ve never heard of an old mine diamond or have had it on your engagement ring wish list for a while, this guide is for you. Here’s what you need to know about the one-of-a-kind cut and why a lab grown diamond might be the best way to secure one. 

What to Look for When Buying an Old Mine Cut Diamond Ring

Modernizing how the old mine cut diamond is made doesn't mean it loses the luster that ancient craftsmen intended. With modern technology, today's craftsmen have been able to recreate the old mine cut with just as much, if not more, precision as achieved during the Georgian and Victorian eras. Using laser cutting and precision machines that replicate the signature characteristics, including the high crown, small table, and large culet, modern craftsmen have been able to hold on to the essence of what makes the old mine cut so special. 

As you explore the uniqueness of the diamond, there are a few questions you should have answers to before narrowing down your choices. 

What Shapes Do Old Mine Diamonds Come In?

The old mine diamond is not a one-size-fits-all shape. It comes in different variations, each with its own unique characteristics:

• Classic old mine cut: slightly squared with more softly rounded corners, sitting somewhere between cushion and a round cut.

• Elongated old mine cut: a longer, more oval-like shape that has been popularized by Taylor Swift's recent engagement. 

How Do You Determine The Quality of an Old Mine Cut Diamond? 

This answer is especially important to answer because this is what sets old mine diamond cut rings apart from other stones. Because the cut predates the grading systems we’ve come to rely on to determine the quality of a diamond (GIA, AGS, and IGI), they can’t be evaluated the same way a modern diamond would. There is no official cut grade for an old mine diamond. So, how is the quality determined? Quality is assessed by how the stone looks and performs to the eye, which means knowing what to look for matters, and who you choose to purchase from matters more than reading a grading report. 

For you, that means understanding how the 4Cs apply to old mine cut diamonds: 

• Cut: Old mine cut diamonds are not graded on a standard cut scale. Instead of chasing a perfect cut grade, look for a stone with good symmetry, a well-proportioned crown, and stunning light. 

• Color: Old mine diamonds tend to show more warmth, so you may notice color more with this cut. 

• Clarity: The large culet at the base of an old mine cut can make some inclusions more visible than they would be in more modern diamond cuts. “Eye-clean” is the standard you want to look for when measuring the clarity of an old mine cut diamond. 

• Carat: Old mine cut diamonds can appear smaller than modern cuts of the same carat weight because more of the stone’s weight sits on the depth rather than across the surface. Important when factoring in your carat expectations. 

Antique vs. Modern Old Mine Cut Rings

To find an antique old mine diamond ring today, you will likely have to source them through estate sales, auctions, or antique dealers, and that comes with a price. That is not only because they are rare, but also because no two old mine diamond rings created during the Georgian and Victorian eras are the same. 

While antique old mine diamonds are harder to find, harder to verify, and come at a cost, modern cuts of similar or the same quality have been made available. Modern old mine cut diamonds replicate the same proportions and characteristics of the original (antique) cut, making it more accessible and, in many cases, more affordable. 

Where to Shop for Old Mine Cut Diamond Rings

What kind of old mine cut diamond are you looking for? Starting there will help guide where you need to search. If your budget has room for antique cuts, the best places to shop would be antique and estate jewelry stores, auction houses, or online vintage dealers. For modern old mine cut diamonds, your options open up to independent jewelers and online retailers that carry the style you desire. Either route you choose should come with vetting vendors based on reviews, stone certifications, and transparent pricing. 

Once you’ve found a trusted vendor, you can move on to the fun part of exploring styles that include solitaire, pave, and old mine cut cathedral engagement rings.

Why Lab Grown Old Mine Cut Rings Are Great Options

Your budget can be $2,000 or $20,000, and you can find a quality old mine cut ring. Lab grown old mine cut diamonds make that range possible. Physically and chemically identical to mined diamonds but priced at nearly half the cost, lab grown stones give buyers access to a larger, higher-quality stone, while getting the most value for their money. 

At Plum, every old mine cut diamond is crafted to order in our certified-sustainable facility, backed by free lifetime resizing and care. Browse the collection to discover the beauty and affordability of luxe old mine diamond engagement rings.